Your water heater is most likely the most significant aspect of your homes plumbing program. A adequately maintained heater can final from ten to fifteen years or more. But, a heater not appropriately maintained can fail in 4 to six years. The condition of the drinking water in your region and the place of the heater in your dwelling are out of your manage, but suitable upkeep of the heater and your plumbing method is important to heater longevity and security.
This post offers you a list of products to verify for both tank type and tankless water heaters. As you go via the steps in checking your heater, if you have the slightest doubt in your ability, get a professional, licensed plumber involved! You are dealing with hot water, all-natural gas, and electricity!
Tank Kind Water Heater Upkeep:
Vent (Gas Water Heaters Only)
The vent ought to be the very same diameter as the draft diverter on the heater tank.
The vent need to go commonly “up and out” the ceiling.
Exactly where is passes by means of the exterior wall, the vent should be double-walled.
Vent sections need to be screwed with each other with a minimum 3 screws per section.
Note: Bad vent pipe connections can fall apart and lead to carbon monoxide poisoning, the silent and deadly gas!
Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve (T&P Valve)The T&P valve is made to stop the heater from exploding if the water pressure or temperature exceeds safe limits.
Pull up the deal with on the valve and water need to flow out and stop when you let go of the handle.
The T&P valve has a drain line that really should go down to about six” from the floor or be plumbed outside your house.
Note: Water leaking out of a T&P drain line can signal a poor T&P valve, high water pressure, or a malfunctioning thermal expansion device.
Water Stress (All Water Heaters)
Water pressure over 80 pounds per square inch (psi) can damage heaters and your piping. It can also harm plumbing appliances, toilets, and your fixtures.
Note: One giveaway that your have high water stress is when the T&P Valve on the heater starts opening and closing.
Outer Water Heater Metal Shell & Plumbing Fittings
Inspect the heater outer sheet metal shell for leaks or rusting.
Inspect the plumbing fittings on the heater for corrosion, rust, or water spotting.
Note: Rusty fittings or discolored shell is a telltale sign that a leak is present!
Temperature Manage
Inspect the heater temperature manage dial to insure its set at the correct water temperature.
The perfect water temperature is 120° Fahrenheit.
Note: Anything above 120° Fahrenheit considerably increases scalding risk, power use, and sediment make-up in the bottom of the heater!
Combustion Chamber (Gas Water Heaters)
Turn the gas valve handle to “pilot position”.
Get rid of the outer access hatch or cover on the side of the heater.
Inspect the roof of the chamber for heavy rusting, water marking, or pitting.
Return the gas valve handle back to the “on position”.
Note: Black soot in the combustion chamber implies drafting difficulties, combustion complications, fume issues, and a fire hazard!
Pedestal Base (Gas Water Heaters)
Make positive the pedestal base the heater rests on is steady and supports the unit.
The typical pedestal will preserve the bottom of the heater at least 18″ off the floor.
Note: A newer water heater may have a “filtered combustion chamber” that is supposed to resolve the have to have for a pedestal. Check the owner’s manual for your heater.
Drain Valve
Open the drain valve to insure that mineral sediment, anode sludge, or rust has not clogged your heaters drain.
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If your heater is on the 2nd floor above living space it should really have a drain pan.
The drain pan should be plumbed to the outdoors of your household.
Inspect the situation of the drain pan, fittings, and piping to the outdoors.
Corrosive Fumes (Gas Water Heaters & Tankless Water Heaters)
Water heaters draw air in for combustion and the high quality of the air is essential.
Corrosive liquids, ammonia, or acids stored near a heater can lead to corrosive air.
Note: Corrosive air drawn into the burner can prematurely corrode the heater.
Internal Tank Corrosion and Rust-The internal tank of your heater is constructed of steel and glass lined to stop rust. Sacrificial anode rods are installed in the tank to shield the glass lined internal steel tank from rust. Aluminum/Zinc or magnesium anode rods corrode over time and get applied up via an electrolytic approach.
Note: Replacing the anode rod can extend the life of the heater but, should be accomplished by a trained, expert service technician.
Sediment Construct-up-Sediment is designed when really hard water is heated. The create-up of sediment in the bottom of the tank can lead to the bottom to overheat and melt away the glass lining of the tank. It can drift into recirculating lines, jam open verify valves, and lead to the recirculating pump to stick until it burns out. Sediment build-up on the bottom of gas water heaters encourages noisy operation. The noise is triggered by little amounts of water beneath the sediment layer turning into steam bubbles, which then collapse violently.
Note: Sediment create-up can lessen the energy efficiency of the heater and void the warranty on some Residential Water Heaters!
Tankless Water Heater Maintenance:
Flushing-Most tankless water heater producers propose flushing the complete unit each six months to 1 year depending upon the water good quality. Reference your manufactures recommendation for flushing. Flushing the unit routinely removes any mineral deposits (ordinarily calcium or lime) that may well have built up inside the boilers. Companies recommend applying a utility pump to circulate 3 or 4 gallons of vinegar or one more low-grade acid for 45 minutes to clean out any deposits.