Your water heater is possibly the most crucial element of your residences plumbing technique. A correctly maintained heater can last from ten to fifteen years or more. But, a heater not effectively maintained can fail in 4 to six years. The situation of the drinking water in your area and the place of the heater in your house are out of your handle, but right upkeep of the heater and your plumbing method is vital to heater longevity and security.
This article gives you a list of things to verify for both tank type and tankless water heaters. As you go by means of the steps in checking your heater, if you have the slightest doubt in your ability, get a skilled, licensed plumber involved! water heater replacement Buena Park are dealing with hot water, all-natural gas, and electricity!
Tank Type Water Heater Upkeep:
Vent (Gas Water Heaters Only)
The vent should be the identical diameter as the draft diverter on the heater tank.
The vent should go generally “up and out” the ceiling.
Exactly where is passes through the exterior wall, the vent really should be double-walled.
Vent sections should really be screwed with each other with a minimum 3 screws per section.
Note: Negative vent pipe connections can fall apart and lead to carbon monoxide poisoning, the silent and deadly gas!
Temperature & Stress Relief Valve (T&P Valve)The T&P valve is designed to protect against the heater from exploding if the water pressure or temperature exceeds secure limits.
Pull up the manage on the valve and water need to flow out and cease when you let go of the handle.
The T&P valve has a drain line that need to go down to about 6″ from the floor or be plumbed outdoors your dwelling.
Note: Water leaking out of a T&P drain line can signal a negative T&P valve, high water stress, or a malfunctioning thermal expansion device.
Water Stress (All Water Heaters)
Water pressure over 80 pounds per square inch (psi) can harm heaters and your piping. It can also harm plumbing appliances, toilets, and your fixtures.
Note: 1 giveaway that your have higher water stress is when the T&P Valve on the heater starts opening and closing.
Outer Water Heater Metal Shell & Plumbing Fittings
Inspect the heater outer sheet metal shell for leaks or rusting.
Inspect the plumbing fittings on the heater for corrosion, rust, or water spotting.
Note: Rusty fittings or discolored shell is a telltale sign that a leak is present!
Temperature Handle
Inspect the heater temperature handle dial to insure its set at the appropriate water temperature.
The ideal water temperature is 120° Fahrenheit.
Note: Something above 120° Fahrenheit greatly increases scalding danger, energy use, and sediment develop-up in the bottom of the heater!
Combustion Chamber (Gas Water Heaters)
Turn the gas valve manage to “pilot position”.
Take away the outer access hatch or cover on the side of the heater.
Inspect the roof of the chamber for heavy rusting, water marking, or pitting.
Return the gas valve manage back to the “on position”.
Note: Black soot in the combustion chamber indicates drafting difficulties, combustion issues, fume issues, and a fire hazard!
Pedestal Base (Gas Water Heaters)
Make sure the pedestal base the heater rests on is steady and supports the unit.
The common pedestal will retain the bottom of the heater at least 18″ off the floor.
Note: A newer water heater may well have a “filtered combustion chamber” that is supposed to resolve the need to have for a pedestal. Verify the owner’s manual for your heater.
Drain Valve
Open the drain valve to insure that mineral sediment, anode sludge, or rust has not clogged your heaters drain.
Drain Overflow Pan
If your heater is on the 2nd floor above living space it need to have a drain pan.
The drain pan really should be plumbed to the outdoors of your house.
Inspect the condition of the drain pan, fittings, and piping to the outdoors.
Corrosive Fumes (Gas Water Heaters & Tankless Water Heaters)
Water heaters draw air in for combustion and the good quality of the air is vital.
Corrosive liquids, ammonia, or acids stored near a heater can lead to corrosive air.
Note: Corrosive air drawn into the burner can prematurely corrode the heater.
Internal Tank Corrosion and Rust-The internal tank of your heater is constructed of steel and glass lined to avert rust. Sacrificial anode rods are installed in the tank to safeguard the glass lined internal steel tank from rust. Aluminum/Zinc or magnesium anode rods corrode more than time and get utilised up through an electrolytic method.
Note: Replacing the anode rod can extend the life of the heater but, must be completed by a educated, qualified service technician.
Sediment Create-up-Sediment is made when hard water is heated. The make-up of sediment in the bottom of the tank can bring about the bottom to overheat and melt away the glass lining of the tank. It can drift into recirculating lines, jam open check valves, and lead to the recirculating pump to stick till it burns out. Sediment create-up on the bottom of gas water heaters encourages noisy operation. The noise is brought on by smaller amounts of water beneath the sediment layer turning into steam bubbles, which then collapse violently.
Note: Sediment develop-up can decrease the power efficiency of the heater and void the warranty on some Residential Water Heaters!
Tankless Water Heater Maintenance:
Flushing-Most tankless water heater suppliers suggest flushing the complete unit each 6 months to 1 year depending upon the water good quality. Reference your manufactures recommendation for flushing. Flushing the unit consistently removes any mineral deposits (generally calcium or lime) that could have built up inside the boilers. Manufacturers recommend using a utility pump to circulate three or 4 gallons of vinegar or an additional low-grade acid for 45 minutes to clean out any deposits.